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Discussion starter · #21 ·
dejvan said:
I would say, change spark plugs and put those NGK Irridium in.
Already got those plugs installed, they were only $3.00 more for the set than the stock ones. :thumbup:
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Motojoe_23 said:
Get your "cruise range" in your map tuned on an eddy current dyno to run at abotu 14:1 AF ratio. You can do this to the cruise range int the map, and leave from %60-%100 throttle area tuned to 13:1 or so and still have ALL THE POWER up top, and have fuel economy in the cruise area.

By the way, I am a certified power commander tuner and service center :cool:

Thanks for the advice but I just don't have the time right now to drive to Georgia to get my bike mapped. Although flying back down I-75 south would be a great way to check the milage after the mapping. Ther is a shop 45 minutes from my house but they are open the exact same schedule as my work. I am always trying to our shop owners to get a dyno but they are too stupid to see the potential.

I already have nocked down my power commander settings a few lines on the controller in the LOW and MID setings and the bike seems to run better already. I gueass the next 150 miles will tell the real story if I am actually saving on gas.
 
walk it'll improve :bounce
 
hey brendan hows it going.i would suggest a few things to try. 1st if you are putting that kind of mileage on im guessing your already around the 15k mark? you may want to do a valve adjustment. 2nd thing is if your bike is stock except for the air filter , what map do you have in the pc now? is it a downloaded map from dj or a custom map for your bike? you may want to try a stock map and see if that helps. if its a custom map maybe they went a little rich? as for a pipe .. go for it! may not change the mileage much but you will like it , esp if you already have a filter and pc, get it remapped and enjoy!
these should help you mpg some, my 04 1k with just a bolt on rs3 (with custom baffle!) and no pc or anything im ave 41.5 to 43. mpg and that is with about 3/4 of the tank above triple digit speeds! my gas light has been comming on between 147 and 155 miles and last tank i filled up at 187.2 miles and took 4.2 gallons to top off.
 
gsxrguy098 said:
an aftermarket exhaust system is not gonna make you burn more fuel it has nothing to do with fuel get rid of the k and n for now


i'm sorry to say but an exhaust system WILL burn more fuel...if it doesn't, then it is making ZERO HP.......its common sense that if you're adding performance parts, your MPG will decrease.....they go hand in hand......127HP civic = 30mpg.....500HP viper = 12mpg.....see the relation??? its rather simple :thumbup:
 
Sorry man, but no matter what exhaust you have on there, it will not burn more fuel. It will however pull in more air, thus causing a leaner burn and a hotter engine. The only thing that can force in more fuel is the ECU /PC map.

Nice to see you yanks being concerned about fuel economy. We pay $6 a gallon over here in the UK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :headshake :headshake :headshake
 
Changing the pipe WILL cause more fuel usage.......... PERIOD.

If you map it correctly it will not be as bad if you map it for economy in the cruise range. BUT the stock ECM does have the ability to adjust to a small extent for the increased air flow, and thus adds more fuel. If you tune the bike for HP through out the range you will loose ALOT of mileage. BUt usually if you are wanting power, you are from %60 throttle and up, so most tuners will tune it for about 13:1 +/- for power at %60 and above, and at crusise throttle openeings tune for 14:1 +/-. This will still be a bit lower than stock mileage because even at cruise ranges you are usuing more air so you are usuing more fuel, but you can reduce the effects a bit with a proper map.

Trust me, I ahve spent HOURS in class for this shit, and quite a bit of time on a dyno as well.

SEE THE TITLE :cool:
 
Motojoe_23 said:
Changing the pipe WILL cause more fuel usage.......... PERIOD.

If you map it correctly it will not be as bad if you map it for economy in the cruise range. BUT the stock ECM does have the ability to adjust to a small extent for the increased air flow, and thus adds more fuel. If you tune the bike for HP through out the range you will loose ALOT of mileage. BUt usually if you are wanting power, you are from %60 throttle and up, so most tuners will tune it for about 13:1 +/- for power at %60 and above, and at crusise throttle openeings tune for 14:1 +/-. This will still be a bit lower than stock mileage because even at cruise ranges you are usuing more air so you are usuing more fuel, but you can reduce the effects a bit with a proper map.

Trust me, I ahve spent HOURS in class for this shit, and quite a bit of time on a dyno as well.

SEE THE TITLE :cool:


thanks for the backup Joe....Its common sense, even after years of fiddling with Honda motors on my old cars.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
OK I synched my throttlebodies to as perfect as I could get them, they are within 1/8 of a ball of each other on the suzuki synch tool.

I have finally had time to put the ZERO map in my powercommander and just incase anybody wanted to know the bike got the same milage without the powercommander.

What should my duty cycle be on th ebike. At idle it is 2.8 with the zero map, with the STOCK map from dynojet and the powercommander set to -6 on the adjustment range the duty cycle was 2.4.....

I have schedualed an appointment for my own bike friday morning to do a compression/leakdown test. I will also check the valve adjustment.

The tapping is getting slightly worse and it sounds like a cam chain problem... :2hard
 
gixxerbrendan said:
Thanks for all the smart ass remarks, that reminds me why I like places like this. I would ride down hill more often but I live in Florida so it is pretty much flat... :lol:

I synchronized my throttlebodies for starters.

I have also started to hear a ticking sound coming from my valvetrain lately so maybe there is something wrong with my valve adjustment or my cam chain tensioner. My idle has been going down for a while now, I have had to raise it roughly every 3,000 miles to keep the bike from stalling. :headscrat
you also need to get a dyno tune, not just try to compensate with the buttons on the PC. that should help significantly.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
skibum91 said:
you also need to get a dyno tune, not just try to compensate with the buttons on the PC. that should help significantly.

I know but I want to get the bike as perfect as I can before the bike goes to the dyno. My fuel economy is below all of my friends bike for no reason, they all have the same mods as me. I wonder if one of my cam gears slipped and has affected timing...
 
I am posting a WHY NOT TO USE THE BUTTONS ON THE FACE thread......... view it please
 
gixxerbrendan said:
I know but I want to get the bike as perfect as I can before the bike goes to the dyno. My fuel economy is below all of my friends bike for no reason, they all have the same mods as me. I wonder if one of my cam gears slipped and has affected timing...
NOT EVERY BIKE RUNS THE SAME. and the dyno tune is going to help fuel mileage more than anything else. You would know if your timing is off.
 
wow i wish my gas guzzlin machine would get 36 mpg..
i gotta resort to cruisin in 5th gear lol.

then again i have a 1100, 4 k&n's stage 2 jet kit, igition powerpak, and a hindle exhaust.

Raven
 
i have an 05 750. I get 100 mi and then have to fill up on a tank, I dont even ride it hard. does that sound about right?
 
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